Silvergrrl Arts

Today was magical. We took a tiny plane – me, Mick, the pilot, and the co-pilot who was also our guide – and flew over Belize’s coastal waters, barrier reef, atolls, and islands. The colors were gorgeous – greens, many shades of blue and teal, light and bright in the shallower waters, deep blue in the depths. The little islands were like jewels. 

And the Great Blue Hole, of course, is stunning. 400 feet deep, 600 feet across, with 2 natural entrances. It was caused by a cave that collapsed. In this photo, the white comet-looking streak on the right is the wake of a boat that was leaving as we flew over.

This was our last full day here. After we got back to the resort, we relaxed all afternoon, and I played with watercolor palettes based on what we saw today as well as other parts of our trip. Tomorrow we fly home to pick up our lives again. 

This morning we went out with Captain Bobo on his skiff, traveling down the coast from Placencia to the Monkey River. At last! Out on the ocean! We saw many birds diving for fish, mostly pelicans and cormorants. Part of the trip was through some red mangroves – such cool root systems (picture number 1). When we got to the mouth of the river, as we pulled up to the shore, there were seven pelicans just sitting there on the pier looking at us (picture number 2). We stopped there at the village to pick up our guide Mario (who carried a machete) and place our orders for lunch so they’d be ready when we returned later.

As we traveled up the river, Mario pointed out interesting birds, trees, and plants. After a while, we pulled to shore where there is a trail through the rain forest jungle. As we walked, Mario told us about what we were looking at. Many of the trees we saw were familiar, and I liked that fact that different peoples in Belize use the plants in similar ways. One thing different about this jungle is that the inhabitants include large Blue Land Crabs – we were able to see one (picture number three). They live in holes in the jungle floor.

There is a large growth of bamboo in one area – very tall, with stems 3-5 inches across, growing in such a way as to make a large cathedral-like space. That was amazing to walk through. Then Mario found a live termite nest close enough to reach (they build them in trees) and poked his finger in and got some out. These were little, like little ants. His challenge to us was to try them – they are edible, high in protein, and taste minty. How could we refuse? And yes, they do taste very minty. But you would have to eat a LOT of them to get a decent meal.

After our jungle walk, we went back down the river. On the way, we saw a crocodile, our first. We had a delicious lunch at Alice’s Restaurant (yes, the actual name!) and said goodbye to Mario. Then it was back onto the boat to come back to Placencia. On the way, we stopped at a popular manatee feeding ground to see if we could spot any. It took a while, but Captain Bobo was patient and knew how to look for them, and we did finally see several manatee noses as they came up for air. After that we returned to Placencia and then back to our hotel.

Tomorrow is our last full day here, and we are taking an aerial tour of the Great Blue Hole.

Today’s adventure was a visit to the Nim Li Punit Mayan Ruin, which is known for its huge carved stelae, or stone slabs and columns. Our guide, Gilbert, walked us around it all – the ceremonial areas, the pok-ta-pok court, the residences and tombs. One large area held stones that mark the solstices and equinoxes – that panorama photo is one of today’s pictures, along with one of the stelae.

After we finished at Nim Li Punit, we went on the the Rio Blanco National Park, where we hiked a short trail to a lovely waterfall. The day finished up with lunch at Pearleen’s Restaurant. This buffet of local food was delicious, and included freshly made watermelon juice. Ms. Pearleen sat with us and chatted as we ate. 

Tomorrow, we are taking a boat trip on the Monkey River. 

Above, the seasonal markers, with Mick for scale. 

Today we visited the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, This is a 128,000 acre protected forest that is home to many animals, including 5 species of cats: jaguars, pumas, margays, ocelots, and jaguarundis. Sadly, but not surprisingly, we did not see any of these. We did, however, see and hear many birds and insects. Our guide, Ki, spotted these and patiently helped us see them: toucans, White-Collared Manakins, Montezuma Oropendolas, Red-billed Pigeons, Piratic Flycatchers, and more.

We saw many leaf-cutter ants, and learned more about how they live. All those leaves and flower petals they collect? They bring those back to their nests, where “cleaner” ants clean them off, chew them up, and then all the ants defecate on them. This creates compost, and then the ants plant fungus on that. The fungus is what they eat. So essentially, they are farmers! Some of them are warriors – these are much bigger, and have very strong jaws. Ki stomped on the ground near one nest and got some warriors to come out. Yikes! You would not want to be bitten by one of those. He picked one up (carefully) for us to look at, then gently put her back down. That’s one of today’s pictures. 

We also saw some different trees, including one humorously known as the “Tourist Tree” because it has red, peeling bark. That is another of today’s pictures. There were also trees with significant scratch marks from where jaguars had clawed them, just like when your pet cat claws the furniture! 

As we were leaving, Ki spotted a tarantula hole and coaxed the female Scarlet-Rumped tarantula out so we could see her. I am not fond of big spiders, but she was pretty cool. She is the third picture.

Tomorrow we are visiting a Mayan ruin site, and I will tell you about that tomorrow night.

We were sad to leave Chan Chich this morning, it is such a wonderful, peaceful place. An Ocellated Turkey hen posed for one final picture – you can really see her beautiful coloring and little “beaded headdress”. Our flight to Placencia, on the southeast coast, was uneventful. This part of Belize is quite different from the northwest in a number of ways. Of course, it’s a beach culture, and far more touristy. The population here is mostly Mestizo (mixed Spanish and indigenous), Garifuna (mixed African and indigenous), and Creole (mixed African and European). On our way to our resort, we stopped at a grocery store, where I was bemused by the sign for the chemist. 

The first real issues we had on our whole trip were here at the Naia resort. We had a reservation for a beach cabin, which to our minds meant a cabin on the beach. What we got instead was a cabin away from the water, with just a tiny sliver of a view of the beach. Hell, no. So we politely protested, and ended up in a smaller cabin but it is right on the beach, and has a lovely view of the water. Sadly, however, the water here has a severe algae bloom at the shoreline, so you really don’t want to go in the water. But it’s beautiful to look at. The final picture today is of the full moon over the Caribbean, taken right outside our door. 

Tomorrow, we have an early-morning outing to the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. I’ll tell you all about it tomorrow night!

This morning we went on a walk around the Chan Chich property to look at medicinal plants used by the Mayan people who have lived in this part of the world for nearly three thousand years. Our guide was Levy, a Mayan man whose grandfather was a bush doctor. The remedies he showed us are still used today. 

The trees, shrubs, and ferns we saw on today’s walk include remedies for coughs, sore throats, headaches, respiratory problems like asthma, muscle spams, arthritis, UTIs, skin problems like rashes, cuts, and burns, dandruff, and high blood pressure. Many of these remedies have been documented in a book “Rainforest Remedies: One Hundred Healing Herbs of Belize” by Rosita Arvigo and Michael Balick. Levy assured us that the book is accurate based his family knowledge from his grandfather. 

We also saw some new birds: the most spectacular was the Rufous-Tailed Jacamar – he is one of today’s photos. I have this great picture thanks to Patrick, a German man in our group who let me take a picture with my phone of the great picture HE took with his  wonderful camera. Hence the German text at the bottom of the photo. 

In the afternoon, after a restful nap, we took  another walk around the property with a different guide, Luis. We were just looking around to see what we could see. There were many interesting plants, including the Cow Itch plant (do NOT touch those leaves!), a black orchid plant, various palm trees and philodendrons, a leaf-cutter ant superhighway, and leaf cutter ants at work. That’s today’s other picture – they are so cute and industrious.

We are here for one more night, then tomorrow we are flying to Placencia, which is on the coast. Time for the beach!